Archaeologists say Luxor alone holds a third of the world's antiquities — Thebes at the pharaohs' peak. East bank: Karnak's 134-column hall and the restored Avenue of Sphinxes, magical by night. West bank: the painted Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut's terraces, the Colossi. Above: the world's most famous (and kindest-priced) dawn balloons. October-April strictly; pair with Aswan via a 3-4 night Nile cruise — Egypt's completest experience; a licensed guide turns stones into stories.