Algerians call it La Radieuse: two Spanish centuries left fortresses and the merriest Mediterranean soul in Algeria — city of music (raï's cradle), cafés and corniche. Santa Cruz fort crowns everything; Place du 1er Novembre and the Pacha Mosque anchor the center; Les Andalouses beaches close the day. Add it to the capital by a one-hour flight; two easy days suffice; the Oran prawns hold court.