No Gulf capital looks like Muscat: a no-skyscraper rule kept it white and low between black Hajar mountains and blue sea. Essentials: the Grand Mosque's dome and legendary carpet, Mutrah Souq's frankincense under wooden roofs, Al Alam Palace between Portuguese forts, and the Royal Opera House. Add a wadi day trip (Shab/Bani Khalid) or Jebel Akhdar's cool heights; the paved Empty Quarter road makes Riyadh-Muscat a beautiful 8-hour drive.