On Lake Tana — the Blue Nile's source and Ethiopia's largest lake — palm-lined Bahir Dar neighbors the country's two greatest water spectacles: Tis Abay ("smoking water") falls 30km out, and boat tours to painted island monasteries, past fishermen paddling papyrus tankwas straight from pharaonic reliefs. One flight hour from Addis; the ideal combo is 3 Addis nights + 2 here; the falls thunder June-September and murmur gracefully the rest.