Amharic names it Tis Abay — the Smoking Water: fresh from Tana, the Blue Nile hurls itself 45 meters in a curtain up to 400m wide in rains, its mist raising a private forest. June-September is full thunder (the power station can tame it otherwise — ask your hotel about today); walk the loop via the 1626 Portuguese bridge and return by the small ferry; real spray demands phone cover and mud-proof shoes.