Europe's Jerusalem: Ottoman mosques beside cathedrals and synagogues, ringed by the green mountains of the 1984 Winter Olympics. Baščaršija's copper lanes and Gazi Husrev-beg mosque, the literal East-meets-West line on Ferhadija, the Trebević cable car to the abandoned bobsled run, and family-favorite Vrelo Bosne springs. Classic plan: two Sarajevo days + Mostar day + nature day; ćevapi is naturally halal; Bosnian coffee in copper is obligatory ritual.