Baku can be rushed through in a single day, but it deserves far more than that. Three days give you enough time to move comfortably between its walled old town and its glass-and-steel modern skyline without exhausting yourself.

Day 1: Icherisheher - the Walled Inner City

Start your morning in Icherisheher (the Inner City), inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2000 together with the Maiden Tower and the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. Sections of the defensive walls, dating in part to the 12th century, are still largely preserved, enclosing a maze of narrow stone lanes that are a pleasure to get lost in. Begin at the Maiden Tower, Baku's most famous symbol, whose foundations some evidence suggests may date as far back as the 7th-6th centuries BC. Climb its interior levels to a terrace overlooking the old town and the harbor. From there, walk to the Palace of the Shirvanshahs at the highest point of the Old City, a 12th-to-15th-century complex that includes the Divankhana (reception hall), the tomb of the Shirvanshah family, the palace bath, and Murad's Gate from the 16th century. Budget at least two hours for the palace complex alone. Spend the rest of the day wandering without a fixed plan among the old caravanserais now converted into restaurants and cafés, stopping by the nearby Teze Bazar for street food. Have dinner at one of the Old City's traditional restaurants.

Day 2: Modern Baku - from the Boulevard to the Flame Towers

Start the day at the Heydar Aliyev Center, the cultural landmark known for its parametric design attributed to architect Zaha Hadid, and one of contemporary Baku's most recognizable icons. In the afternoon, head to Baku Boulevard, the Caspian waterfront promenade founded in 1909 and gradually expanded over the decades. Walk its length, or take the funicular that climbs from boulevard level up to Highland Park in a ride of only about 7-8 minutes, offering panoramic views taking in the TV Tower, the Maiden Tower, and the entire waterfront. Save the evening for the three Flame Towers - Azerbaijan's tallest buildings at 182, 165, and 161 meters - whose facades light up after sunset with more than 10,000 programmable LED lamps that simulate the movement of flames. The best viewing spot is the Boulevard itself, or the opposite bank facing the towers.

Day 3: Final touches and shopping

Devote the morning to the nearby Azerbaijan Carpet Museum, then head to Nizami Street and Fountains Square for shopping and cafés. If time allows, add a short visit to one of Baku's traditional markets for souvenirs - spices, tea, and local crafts are good choices. If you have extra time before departure, consider extending the trip by half a day to visit Gobustan or the Yanar Dag fire site on the nearby Absheron Peninsula (see our dedicated day-trip guide).

Practical details

  • Getting around: get the BakuCard tourist card (starting around 2 AZN) which includes free transport and discounted entry to some museums, or use the Bolt app for taxis, the most widely used in the city.
  • The metro runs from 6am to midnight with stations near all the major landmarks.
  • Comfortable shoes are essential - the Old City's ground is stone and uneven in many places.
  • Book popular Old City restaurants in advance during busy months (September-October).

This itinerary stretches easily to four or five days if you add day trips outside the city, but in three days it gives you a complete sense of the striking contrast Baku lives between its walled past and its illuminated future.