Amman wins you gradually: a citadel stacking Ammon, Rome and the Umayyads on one hill, a 6,000-seat Roman theatre downtown, and the real city sipping coffee along Rainbow and Weibdeh. Downtown for history, the art streets for evenings, Abdali for the new face, Qasr al-Abd an hour out. Mansaf is obligatory hospitality; two days here anchor the Petra-Rum south perfectly.