Since the sixteenth century the domes have shaded trade: Toqi Zargaron (goldsmiths), Telpak Furushon (hats), Sarrafon (money-changers) — buying silk, knives and caps today in the very buildings where merchant ancestors haggled. Ornamented Bukhara knives and karakul hats gift authentically; engraving workshops work live inside — ask and watch.