Qatar razed its old downtown to rebuild it as it was — with tomorrow's technology: Msheireb, the world's first smart heritage downtown — white Qatari architecture in wind-studied shaded lanes, an internal tram, and the four Msheireb house-museums telling workers, slavery (Bin Jelmood's rare narrative courage) and the Qatari home in original houses, free. Night lights the squares into serenity; its cafés are among Doha's finest sittings.