Santorini's other face: Perissa flowing into Perivolos — kilometers of glinting black volcanic sand beneath the giant Mesa Vouno rock: here those who came to swim truly swim, in deep-blue clear water with long beach-bed and taverna rows. The black sand literally burns at noon — water sandals are necessity not luxury; the bottom drops fast to depth — mind little ones near the edge; the island's cheapest stays cluster here — a smart budget base with the direct Fira bus.