Directly beneath the rock lives Athens' oldest quarter: Plaka's colored lanes and neoclassical houses — hiding above it Anafiotika, the white island village built by Cycladic workmen who carried Santorini to the Acropolis slope. Anafiotika is the hidden peak — climb its narrow white lanes and disbelieve you're in a capital; the stair restaurants on Mnisikleous serve the Greek evening with seafood and grills reassuring; early morning empties the lanes for photos, evening fills them with life.