From Athens' highest point (277m) you understand the city: a white sea of houses reaching the harbors — the Acropolis a marble island amid it, igniting at sunset beneath little white St George's. The funicular from Kolonaki climbs in minutes and the pine-shaded walk descends beautifully; arrive thirty minutes before sunset for your spot at the daily crowded show; the summit café prices its view — a coffee suffices the rite.