Dead-center Vienna stands her symbol: the Stephansdom — the colored tile roof with its eagle patterns, the south tower (343 steps) reading the whole center, the giant Pummerin bell up the north one (by lift): the cathedral the city turns around. General entry is free with deep wings and towers on separate or joint tickets; the colored roof shows whole from above — the lifted north tower easing families; Graben and Kärntner shopping streets ring it — walking Vienna's heart.