Before towers there was the Creek: Al Fahidi (Bastakiya) with its windtower lanes, cafés and restored gallery-houses — from it cross by wooden abra (one dirham!) to Deira and its souqs: Dubai's truest, cheapest hours. The abra is the world's loveliest public transport at its price — ride both ways destination-free; Union Museum and Sheikh Saeed house complete the history nearby with Deira food walks for tasting adventurers; late afternoon into sunset gilds creek and boat lights — the quarter's whole hour.