From a watchtower over a water well a capital was born: Qasr Al Hosn (1780s), Abu Dhabi's oldest building — fort and Al Nahyan seat for two centuries, today a museum telling the city from pearling to the Union age, the House of Artisans beside it reviving sadu and talli craft. The living displays and recorded elders' testimonies ring truest — take listening time; the artisans' house gifts authentically from its makers' hands; dead-center city, its walls glowing white by night.