A birth gift to a crown prince became Bavaria's Versailles: Nymphenburg's 600m façade and swan-owned canals — the superb Stone Hall, the famous Gallery of Beauties, and gardens walked for hours with hidden pavilions. Ludwig II, Neuschwanstein's builder, was born here — his room is on the tour: the story's start before its castle; the park pavilions (Amalienburg above all) are rococo jewels most miss; tram 17 runs direct and winter freezes the canals into another canvas.