Twenty minutes carry you to the cradle: old-capital Mtskheta (UNESCO) — Svetitskhoveli cathedral (11th c.), Georgian Orthodoxy's heart, and from Jvari monastery above the famous two-colored meeting of Aragvi and Mtkvari. Jvari first for the view then descend to town and cathedral — the finest order; town stalls sell true churchkhela (walnut-grape sweet) in its honest homeland; half a day suffices, classically joined to Ananuri and the northern Kazbegi road.