On a rock spur 400m above the sea clings Èze: stone lanes spiraling up among artists' workshops to the Jardin Exotique (cacti and sculptures) whose view abridges the whole Riviera — Fragonard's perfume works below touring free. The exotic garden's token ticket is the summit — don't settle for lanes; bus 82/112 climbs direct from Nice — or train to its station then the famous Nietzsche path afoot for the strong; mornings beat the noon waves in a village small and fast to fill.