Saladin built it and Egypt's rulers dwelt 700 years: the Citadel — crowned by Muhammad Ali's alabaster mosque with its Ottoman domes and slender twin minarets, its walls spreading all Cairo to the Giza pyramids on clear horizons. Inside the Alabaster: chandeliers, painted dome, and the clock tower France traded for the obelisk; winter mornings clear the pyramid line from the west wall; the Mamluk al-Nasir mosque within escapes most — don't be of them.