On Hunanaiya valley's edge stands Sheikh Salman bin Ahmed's fort (1812) — Bahrain's 19th-century seat of rule with finely restored majlises and courts, its valley terrace serving the island interior's loveliest sunset. Sunset hour is the appointment — valley and palms beneath the wall never age; the overlooking fort café ranks among Bahrain's gentlest sits; join old Riffa souq nearby for a southern heritage evening.